Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Las Vegas budget buffets in 1980, taking the food of his native France to the culinary arts desert. Rochat has ever since added Andre's at the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. But his provincially designed flagship in a 1930s-era down-town house-with four warm dining rooms, each symbolizing a different French metropolis and ornamented with lots of wood, tapestries, and also very soft lighting-is even now going strong, owing in part to the menu that includes both traditional French dishes such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and lots of with updated twists, like grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices start in the mid-30s.
